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Diamonds and Wempe.

Over 135 years of experience speak for themselves. And for us.

diamond jewelry and watch

The name Wempe has been synonymous with jewellery of the highestquality for many generations. And the solitaire has been the heart of our collection for an equally long time. Our experience and our knowledge of the market guarantee that the selection of solitaires you will find at Wempe is truly beyond compare. Wempe diamonds come from legitimate sources in accordance with the Kimberley Process of the United Nations and are thus ethically flawless and conflict-free. 

Wempe can look back upon a long heritage, but this does not mean that we do not appreciate innovation. We know that the value of a diamond derives not only from its beauty, but chiefly from its quality, so we are one of only a very few jewellers worldwide to have established our own gemmological centre.

Before a diamond earns the right to be a Wempe solitaire, experienced specialists at our headquarters in Hamburg meticulously check itspurity, colour, cut and brilliance. Every Wempe diamond weighing 0.25 ct. or more is issued and subsequently accompanied by an individual certificate of authenticity. This certificate assures you that every piece of jewellery to leave our premises is of the very highest quality.

Diamonds and tweezers
Diamonds and Magnifier

Expertise on diamonds.

The word diamond is derived from the Greek word adamas, which means “invincible“. The hardest of all gemstones, a diamond truly is invincible. Our specialists thoroughly scrutinize a diamond under a loupe to evaluate its quality before setting it. Although stones may appear identical to the naked eye, no two diamonds are exactly alike. It takes a well-trained eye and years of experience to make an exact appraisal. The most important criteria for buying diamonds are the so-called four Cs: carat, colour, clarity, and cut. Only a perfect symbiosis of all four Cs makes a diamond into a Wempe solitaire.

Important: International guidelines exist for the appraisal of diamonds, but standards are invariably also affected by subjective interpretation. That is why we are extremely strict when it comes to ensuring that each selected stone satisfies our own rigorous standards.

We are pleased to introduce you to Wempe’s standards here.

The Wempe standard: Carat. The unit of weight.

This factor determines the weight of a diamond, but not its size. High-carat diamonds are rare and correspondingly valuable. One carat is equal to 0.2 grams. This is the exact weight of one seed from the carob tree, a so-called qirat. Since these seeds are identicalin size and weight, they were a natural choice for use as counterweights. Each carat is subdivided into 100 points. For example, a gemstone weighing between 0.23 and 0.28 carats can also be described as a 25-point or quarter-carat diamond.

For centuries, the carat has served as a reliable unit of weight for diamonds. If two diamonds are identical in quality, a two-carat diamond is worth more than twice as much as a one-carat stone because those of higher-carat weight are rarer and more valuable than lighter ones. On the other hand, two diamonds of identical weight can be priced very differently if the stones are dissimilar in quality. For example, a smaller but very clear diamond can be more valuable than a larger one. And two diamonds of equal size and clarity can differ in value if one has a better-quality cut than the other. A diamond becoming a Wempe solitaire depends far more on the gem’s colour, clarity and cut than its carat weight.

Graphic carat

The Wempe standard: Colour. The hue.

When we appraise the colour of a diamond, this does not mean that we choose the prettiest hue. To the contrary: We measure how close the diamond comes to being absolutely colourless. Strictly speaking, it is not the colour, but the absence of colour that distinguishes a high-quality diamond and qualifies it to be a Wempe solitaire. The closer to colourless the gem is, the rarer it is - and the higher the grade we give it.

Incidentally: Only diamonds that earn a grade of H or better on a scale ranging from D to Z have a chance of passing our rigorous test.

Fancy diamonds are also rare, and thus precious. These are diamonds with vivid hues such as pink, blue or yellow. An exceptional white diamond is extremely rare and therefore possesses the highest grade. A comparison stone of known grade provides an absolutely objective standard against which another diamond can be evaluated.

Wempe color scale D-H
D: exceptional white +, E: exceptional white. F: rare white +, G: rare white, H: white
Wempe color scale I-L
I-J: slightly tinted white, K-L: tinted white
Wempe color scale M-S/Z
M-Z: tinted white

The Wempe standard: Clarity. The purity.

Nearly every diamond naturally contains inclusions, which are like Mother Nature’s fingerprints. Although inclusions in a good-quality diamond cannot be seen with the naked eye, they can nevertheless detract from the stone’s brilliance. If a diamond’s inclusions are visible to an unschooled eye, our appraisers immediately reject it. If the inclusions remain invisible even under tenfold magnification, the diamond is classified as internally flawless.

Incidentally: Naturally, obligatory grading tables exist to evaluate the purity of gemstones. But here, too, the evaluation is influenced by the examiner’s subjective measuring criteria, so WEMPE’s appraisers thoroughly scrutinize each stone to guarantee a highest possible degree of precision. All white brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 0.50 ct. or more are accompanied by an independent and internationally recognized rading document along with a Wempe certificate.

Graphic clarity grades
Only a diamond that has earned a purity grade of SI or better can satisfy our strict quality standards.

The Wempe standard: Cut. The shape.

The cut is the sole criterion that can be influenced by a human being. Only after a raw diamond has been perfectly proportioned does it attain unmistakable luminosity and great brilliance. Immaculately cut facetscan return almost all of the light that shines upon the stone. The type of cut is determined by the natural shape of the raw diamond, so numerous shapes such as the princess cut, the pear cut, and the emerald cut exist. Only a round-cut diamond with 57 facets earns the right to be described as a brilliant-cut diamond.

As much as 60% of the original material may have to be sacrificed when a raw diamond is cut, meaning that a diamond cutter must make his or her most difficult decision at the beginning. Should the stone be processed to achieve the greatest amount of brilliance? If so, it may lose some carat weight. Or should the diamond be allowed to attain its greatest possible weight? If so, the cut stone may be less than optimally brilliant. Only the most skillful and highly experienced diamond cutters can make these decisions. At Wempe prioritize the greatest brilliance, so the solitaires we offer are cut to range in quality from very good to good. 

Incidentally: The value of a diamond increases in direct proportion to the perfection with which it has been cut and the virtuosity with which it focuses, reflects, refracts and scatters light. For this reason, the cut is the royal discipline among the four Cs.

The optimal diameter for a one-carat, brilliant-cut diamond is between 6.4 and 6.5 mm.

Graphic diamond cut
1. good, 2. too pointed, 2. to shallow

The diamond and its setting.

A setting should never compete with the diamond it enfolds, but should highlight the gem’s perfection and accentuate its special attributes. A setting must always securely hold its diamond, it should be comfortable to wear, and it must uphold our high quality criteria. The crowning touch of the exclusive diamonds with a Wempe-Cut is the specially developed Splendora BY KIM setting. It has four prongs and the interior of its cup is set with 16 small brilliant-cut diamonds. This enhances the brilliance of the central stone and perfectly displays the solitaire.


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