Two manufacturers for one masterpiece
Aficionados of chronograph mechanisms are sure to lament that the steel case of Tudor’s new Heritage Black Bay Chrono has a solid metal case back. With this detail, the company is simply upholding tradition rather than trying to hide anything. Just the opposite: self-winding manufacture Caliber MT5813 has much to offer. The move- ment is 7.2 millimeters in height, while the ball-borne rotor winds the mainspring in both directions of rotation. The fully wound mainspring stores enough power for approx. 70 hours, and a traditional column wheel controls the chronograph’s three functions: start, stop, and reset. A vertical friction clutch designed for maximum energy efficiency connects the propelling “engine” and the stopwatch. The innovative elements of this exclusive movement include a patented self-centering system with a novel heart cam to return the chronograph’s second hand and the counter for up to 45 elapsed minutes at the 3 o’clock position to their starting locations. The variable inertia Glucydur balance’s accurate “backswing” is ensured by an antimagnetic silicon hairspring, both of which oscillate underneath an elongated bridge at four Hertz – a frequency enabling the mechanism to measure intervals to the nearest eighth of a second. If this wristwatch had a transparent case back, connoisseurs would quickly identify the movement’s provenance: it’s made by Breitling, which debuted its base chronograph movement (Caliber B01) to celebrate the firm’s 125th anniversary in 2009. There are, of course, several differences between the original and the version fabricated exclusively for Tudor. In addition to the finishing, these differences also include the aforementioned balance and hairspring. Breitling also utilizes a balance cock to hold an index system, which is used to finely regulate the rate. Incidentally: each movement must pass the COSC’s official Swiss chronometer test before it is installed in its case, which is water-resistant to ten bar and has a sapphire crystal, a screw-in crown, and screw-in buttons.
Heritage Black Bay ChronoRemaining loyal to the aesthetic of the line with the famous “Snowflake” hands, this sporty model provides the best legibility. Inset counters assure optimal contrast. Tudor’s first chronographs inspired the design of the push-pieces on the stainless steel case.
- Material: Stainless steel with stainless steel bracelet
- Caliber: Automatic, Caliber MT5813
- Diameter: 41 mm
- Special feature: Chronograph
- Wempe reference: TU280033