Contemporary in every regard
A gaze at this new white gold wristwatch awakens many memories because it reflects Patek Philippe’s nearly 80-year history as a maker of full calendars for the wrist. A full calendar “knows” the lengths of each month in ordinary years and leap years. It “knows” that January, March, May, July, August, October and December each have 31 days and that all the other months (except February) have 30 days. With the exception of the rare secular years, February has 29 days in years that are evenly divisible by four and only 28 days in all other years. The face of this watch was defined for the next 40 years in 1941 when Patek Philippe unveiled Reference 1541 as the first “serial” wristwatch with a perpetual calendar (achieved on the basis of a chronograph move- ment). The familiar arrangement has windows for the day of the week and the month. These are paired with a small hand that is concentric to the moon-phase display rotating just above the 6 o’clock position to show the date. This arrangement was so handsome and convincing that there was absolutely no reason to change it. The tradi- tion continued on the dial of automatic Reference 3450, which debuted in 1980. Its special feature was an unprecedented leap-year display in a little peephole at the 3:30 position. The era of perpetual calendar wristwatches with this dial arrangement ended temporarily in 1985 with the arrival of Reference 3940, whose case was slimmed thanks to svelte micro rotor Caliber 240, where hands replaced the erstwhile windows. Reference 5320, which made its debut in 2017, cultivates tradition by alluding to stylistic elements from References 1463, 1526, 2405, 2438/1, and 3450. Tradition joins modernity in automatic Caliber 324 SQ with Gyromax® balance and Spiromax® hairspring. Diametrically across the dial from the leap-year window at the 4:30 position, another aperture contains an easily settable display to show whether the hour hand is presently sweeping a nighttime or daytime orbit. A state-of-the-art mechanism for the moon phase errs by only one day every 122.6 years. The case’s moderate diameter (40 millimeters) makes this model equally appealing for women.
Grande Complication Ref. 5320G-001The Geneva-based manufacture presents the perpetual calendar, which is one of its favorite complications, in a new variation. Although Reference 5320G is inspired by museum watches from the 1940s and ’50s, this timepiece has an emphatically timeless look and optimally combines the best horological tradition with state-of-the-art technology.
- Material: 18 k white gold with alligator-leather wristband
- Caliber: Automatic, Caliber 324 S Q
- Diameter: 40 mm
- Special features: Perpetual calendar with moon phase, Patek Philippe seal
- Wempe reference: PP330137